[Homeroast] Who am I responding to?!

Brian Kamnetz bkamnetz at gmail.com
Tue Jun 21 18:35:13 CDT 2016


Scot,

I roasted for a few years with a Poppery 2. One mod that won't be necessary
with your popper is removing the "fish scale" bimetal circuit breaker, a
safety feature that caused the heat element to turn off before the roast
was completed. Another mod, one that was really useful, takes some tools,
basically a drill (~1/2 inch), and a screwdriver, and a soldering iron such
as this one:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Aven-40-Watt-Soldering-Iron-with-Fine-Tip-17521/206311976

The basics of soldering are simple, and instruction is readily available on
the internet.


Then, a simple switch that looks like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-8-Amp-Single-Pole-Toggle-Switch-GSW-18/100141285

I'm not very handy, but my 10 thumbs and I installed switches into several
poppers.

There are lots of directions for this mod on the internet. You wire the
switch into the wire going to the heat element, and when your roast is
done, flip the switch. The heat stops, but the fan keeps blowing. One
really big advantage is that you don't have to handle anything hot when the
roast is done. Just throw the switch and wait a minute or two, and
everything is cool.

Regarding the 100-foot extension cord, cheap is good, something like 16ga.,
because it doesn't do a very good job of carrying the electricity, which
means that your heating element doesn't get as hot.

I've never done it, but, in a manner similar to wiring in the switch to the
heat element, some people wire in a dimmer switch to the fan, which sends
more or less electricity to the fan, making it move more air or less air.
They then control the rate of the roast by increasing or decreasing the fan
speed.

Brian


On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 5:56 PM, Scot Murphy <deppitybob at gmail.com> wrote:

>
> > On Jun 21, 2016, at 6:40 PM, Ben Treichel <J.W.Bullfrog at gmail.com
> <mailto:J.W.Bullfrog at gmail.com>> wrote:
> >
> > I use a hurricane lamp glass and tilt the popper about 15 degrees. You
> > should decrease your bean load until it move is bit on its own,
>
> I see three problems with this.
>
> 1) HOT LAMP GLASS.
>
> Seriously. Those things get VERY hot, and as I saw today, they are
> fragile. I’m more than a little clumsy. I won’t take a chance on having one
> shatter as I’m trying to remove it or tilt it to get the beans out in time
> to keep them from entering third crack. Pyrex? Maybe. If I could find the
> right chemistry flask.
>
>
> Scot “no no, that’s sugar crystals” Murphy
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