[Homeroast] Poppery Heating Element
brookswv at gmail.com
Sat Nov 1 16:11:15 CDT 2014
Thanks Steve. I'm trying to use what I have and I'm pondering drilling a
hole in the plate to secure the wire lead through, then apply solder. We'll
see if it'll work. Need to let it sit for a few right now.
On Sat, Nov 1, 2014 at 5:04 PM, Steve Jacobs <steve.jacobs at gmail.com> wrote:
> Given how much heat you'd see at the joint, JBWeld would fry in short
> order. Even regular solder will probably melt. I'd try silver solder or a
> mechancial bond with a non-insulated copper crimp. Whatever you use, make
> sure both wires are clean and connected using something like a western
> union splice for maximum contact.
> I like to use a combination of a crimped and soldered connection since you
> want to avoid any resistance at the joint.
> On Saturday, November 1, 2014, Jason Brooks <brookswv at gmail.com> wrote:
> > Hey folks. Been fighting with the poppery heating element. For
> > we're in the slow process of moving. I took at job back home in WV in
> > September, weekends full of driving back to VA then to on Sunday.
> > is the roasting day. The coil has been annoying lately, but today, it's
> > pushed me over!
> > If you are familiar with the Poppery I's design, you have two leads that
> > attach to the ni-chrome heating element. On mine, one of those was a
> > connection. That connection broke today and I've not been able to solder
> > back, largely due to the fact that most of my tools that are handy for
> > are packed. I tried a spade clip, but it didn't work
> > Is there something else that would bind the ni-chrome to what was the
> > solder joint? I've been thinking of JB Weld, but didn't know if it would
> > conductive.
> > Any suggestions would be appreciated. Low on roasted coffee for next
> > and about 22 hours to departure.
> > Jason
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