[Homeroast] Poppery Heating Element

Steve Jacobs steve.jacobs at gmail.com
Sat Nov 1 16:04:31 CDT 2014


Given how much heat you'd see at the joint, JBWeld would fry in short
order. Even regular solder will probably melt. I'd try silver solder or a
mechancial bond with a non-insulated copper crimp. Whatever you use, make
sure both wires are clean and connected using something like a western
union splice for maximum contact.

I like to use a combination of a crimped and soldered connection since you
want to avoid any resistance at the joint.

On Saturday, November 1, 2014, Jason Brooks <brookswv at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey folks. Been fighting with the poppery heating element. For background,
> we're in the slow process of moving. I took at job back home in WV in
> September, weekends full of driving back to VA then to on Sunday. Saturday
> is the roasting day. The coil has been annoying lately, but today, it's
> pushed me over!
>
> If you are familiar with the Poppery I's design, you have two leads that
> attach to the ni-chrome heating element. On mine, one of those was a solder
> connection. That connection broke today and I've not been able to solder it
> back, largely due to the fact that most of my tools that are handy for such
> are packed. I tried a spade clip, but it didn't work
>
> Is there something else that would bind the ni-chrome to what was the
> solder joint? I've been thinking of JB Weld, but didn't know if it would be
> conductive.
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated. Low on roasted coffee for next week,
> and about 22 hours to departure.
>
> Jason
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