[Homeroast] Homeroast Digest, Vol 37, Issue 5

ricky carter rickylc99 at gmail.com
Sat Feb 5 15:19:52 CST 2011

Thanks Ivan, I think I need to add the insulation to the outside of the drum

I have had the door pop open on me about a half dozen times, usually at the
beginning of the roast.  I thought i was bumping it also but this last time
realized the door may not shut completely at times, particularly doing back
to back roasts and trying to hurry things along.  I now check it every roast
to be sure it is closed properly.

that is really the only complaint I have about the quest, and it is minor.

On Sat, Feb 5, 2011 at 3:52 PM, sci <scizen at gmail.com> wrote:

> Mike,
> That makes sense. I get it. The Amp meter gives me a relative measurement.
> I
> have used that same method with temperature measurements in the past with
> other roasters.
> Everything in my house runs hot and fast at 125v. I live about 500f from a
> power substation.
> Thanks for reassurance on the heating elements. I try to never push
> anything
> technological to its utter extremes. "Easy does it" is my motto. I will get
> a Killowatt to measure the actual wattage being used. I know some of that
> will be for the motors and fans.
> Ricky,
> I have been using 7A for 125-150g batches; 7.5A for 200g; and 8A for 225g.
> I
> reach 1C in the 9-11 minute range. I did 225 g of Classic Mandheling and I
> had no problem getting to 2C at 15:00 and 438BT. I have not been able to
> record ET reliably just yet. When I do measure it with my 2nd TC, it is
> usually a good deal higher. I need to get a dual input unit.  I have done
> about 15 roasts w/out the thermal blanket, and about 10 with it. The
> blanket, IMHO, aids the thermal transfer, makes the unit behave more
> steadily, gives it thermal momentum. When I plot my  roast curves, they are
> a pretty consistent, very similar. I'm still in the learning curve on how
> to
> manipulate the curves. I get a nice long pause between 1C and 2C hitting 2C
> in the 14 to 16 minute range. I have been doing what Tom suggested: leave
> the power setting alone and using the fan to manipulate the curves.
> A dumb mistake to avoid: I accidentally hit the door lever on the QM3 just
> as my Classic Mandheling was entering 1C, releasing about 25% of the beans
> into the cooling tray. Not good. The door got stuck open with beans, and
> more poured out. I managed to get the door closed again. Determined not to
> ruin the roast, I quickly  dumped the escaped beans back into the loading
> chute. This incident caused a big dip in the roast curve, but the Q quickly
> gained momentum and got them up to 2C.
> Ivan
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2011 12:07:33 -0500
> > From: "Mike Chester" <mchet at charter.net>
> > To: "A list to discuss home coffee roasting. There are rules for
> >        thislist,       available at
> > http://www.sweetmarias.com/maillistinfo.html"
> >        <homeroast at lists.sweetmariascoffee.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Homeroast] Quest Amp Question
> > Message-ID: <D051392A3EF04AFAB299EE840DB4D2F6 at mchet>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> >        reply-type=original
> >
> > You are correct - 1250 watts.  You are not hurting your element. The
> > nameplate ratings are only an average for many units.  They are built
> > within
> > a tolerance and your actual unit may be higher or lower within that
> range.
> > Also, I am sure that the built in ammeter is only approximate.  You would
> > need a more accurate meter to get the real reading.  The meter is there
> as
> > a
> > reference, not an absolute value.  As long as it reads consistently, it
> > does
> > not matter if it is correct unless you are giving your profiles to
> another
> > Quest owner.  As an example, let's say that it was off by 50% (it is
> > probably off by less than 10% but I am trying to make a point)  If would
> > show 5 amps when the real current was 10 amps every time. Since your real
> > concern should only be the roast results, you would dial in 5 amps every
> > time instead of 10.  The beans would not know that your meter was wrong,
> > and
> > you shouldn't care.
> > If you really are running at 1250 watts, your element should be fine.
>  They
> > are made heavy enough to handle a small over-power without any problems.
> > Remember, the nameplate rating is only nominal and your actual results
> may
> > vary.
> > I hope that I have explained this clearly.
> >
> > Mike Chester
> >
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