[Homeroast] Jimma

Robert Yoder robotyonder at hotmail.com
Thu Oct 14 18:02:04 CDT 2010


Thanks again, Chris!
 
Happy Roasting,
 
robert
 
> Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 12:33:57 -0700
> From: yakster at gmail.com
> To: homeroast at lists.sweetmariascoffee.com
> Subject: Re: [Homeroast] Jimma
> 
> picture of the thermocouple here:
> 
> http://m661.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/yakster/Thermocouple.jpg.html#mm_collapsed
> 
> Pecked out on my mobile phone.
> 
> -Chris
> 
> Pecked out on my mobile phone.
> On Oct 14, 2010 11:57 AM, "Robert Yoder" <robotyonder at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks, Chris, for the detailed information! I think this is very useful,
> and if you do develop a Bean Mass Temperature-indicator, I'd like to see
> those data plotted along with the others. Do you plan to use "FarmRoast's"
> method?
> >
> > I would like to see how you mounted your Enviro Temperature Thermocouple.
> Any chance you might have a picture?
> >
> > Thanks again, and,
> >
> > Happy Roasting,
> >
> > robert
> >
> >> Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 10:44:43 -0700
> >> From: yakster at gmail.com
> >> To: homeroast at lists.sweetmariascoffee.com
> >> Subject: Re: [Homeroast] Jimma
> >>
> >> For understanding the Behmor profiles, nothing beats Ira's BehmorThing
> >> program available on www.behmorthing.com. I use it to plan and track my
> >> roasts and greens inventory, it's invaluable if you're trying to get a P2
> >> temp drop to occur at a given time (though I almost never use a P2
> profile
> >> anymore myself and now just open the door to cool things down). Also,
> never
> >> walk away from the Behmor during the roast... it may be tempting because
> >> it's pre-programmed, but the results could be disastrous.
> >>
> >> I'll keep this somewhat on-topic by using my Jimma roast profile as an
> >> example in this email.
> >>
> >> Since the Behmor doesn't have a temperature display, it's hard to talk
> about
> >> temperatures. It's also going to depend on the voltage available during
> the
> >> roast which can affect the heat output. It's also going to vary depending
> >> on where you measure the temperature in the Behmor because of the air
> >> circulation.
> >>
> >> The following picture is a roast graph of my roast of the Jimma, I
> roasted a
> >> full pound on a 1# P3 B profile which I ended up extending the time on to
> >> reach my desired roast. It took quite a while to take the full pound to
> >> first crack, the coffee is tasting very good now but I may roast my next
> >> batch with a P1 profile which is full power throughout the roast. I have
> a
> >> thermocouple taped along the bottom of my roaster that's positioned about
> >> one quarter inch below the bottom heating element to give me a good idea
> of
> >> the heat output of the roaster during the roast. I don't have a Bean
> >> Temperature thermocouple installed yet.
> >>
> >> http://www.twitpic.com/2xkz9g/full
> >>
> >> You can see that even though the profile (blue line) shows a stepped
> roast,
> >> the heat ramps up and is not instantaneous. I pre-heated the Behmor and
> >> old-style chaff tray for one minute on a P1 profile before putting in the
> >> beans and starting the roast, so the drop-in temp is about 200 degrees.
> Be
> >> careful not to pre-heat too long (more then about 2 minutes) or the
> roaster
> >> will not restart after stopping it, and wear Ove Gloves or other
> protection
> >> for your hands.
> >>
> >> The hump at about 8 minutes in is when the afterburner and fans kick in
> for
> >> smoke reduction. The green bar at the bottom indicates when I started and
> >> stopped controlling the temp by opening and shutting the door. I started
> >> early, probably too early, to kill some of the momentum going into first
> >> crack. I watch the temperature and listen to the roast while adjusting
> the
> >> door position to get the temps where I want them. The olive box indicates
> >> the start and end of first crack. Finally, the dip at about 25 minutes is
> >> when I stopped the roaster and pulled the beans to quickly cool them in
> my
> >> bean cooler. I let the Behmor take care of the cooling in the beginning
> as
> >> it's pretty good at getting hte temps down to start with, but when the
> temps
> >> drop low enough I pull the drum and restart the cool cycle while cooling
> the
> >> beans myself. Here's a picture of the beans cooling:
> >>
> >> http://www.twitpic.com/2x6sgj
> >>
> >> I'm not posting this information to be held up as an ideal roast, it's
> not.
> >> This is pretty much a generic roast profile for me that I use for a lot
> of
> >> beans as a starting point that works well for espresso and brewed coffee
> >> most of the time. It may be sacrilegious, but I've actually been using
> >> profiles that take longer to get to first then the experts recommend on a
> >> regular basis and been very happy with the results, especially when I get
> a
> >> full pound of beans out of the roast in one batch to brew for the week. I
> >> look at the Quest roaster and it looks really nice, pretty much the
> opposite
> >> of the Behmor with full manual control, but I don't know if I'd be happy
> >> with 200 gram roasts. I've gotten to like being able to come home and
> roast
> >> a pound of coffee at night, but I know a more hands-on roaster would help
> >> develop my roasting skills. I think next time, as I said, I'll use a P1
> >> profile and open the door to control entry into first crack with my next
> >> Jimma roast.
> >>
> >> Also note that this is a roast of a full pound of beans. As such, things
> >> ramp slower and the beans gain more momentum. I can open the door during
> >> first crack on full pound roasts and see the temperature hold steady with
> >> the door fully open. With a smaller batch, you'll get to first much
> quicker
> >> and the bean mass won't hold the heat so much.
> >>
> >> Hopefully this information will help others understand how the Behmor
> works
> >> and how the profiles work, that's the intention anyway.
> >>
> >> -Chris
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