[Homeroast] Electrical question on coffee brewers

raymanowen at gmail.com raymanowen at gmail.com
Thu Oct 7 17:39:29 CDT 2010


Agreed again, but my personal experience with many different machines is
that they operate best with a "hard" power supply, right in the middle of
the nameplate voltage range.

Any thermostat or temperature controller [even PID] would seem to obviate
the need for power supply stability. But when it calls for heating power
that's not there, don't blame an ill design. Besides, the power and heating
ability changes exponentially with the voltage excursions.

Nothing worse than a frustrated PID that calls for the quick shot of heat
and gets almost nothing. PID's work best when there is massively excess
heating power. No controller can generate the needed heat by itself- they
just chop up and discard the excess. Sags and brownouts can be lived
without. The home appliance can be ruined by them.

Cheers, Mabuhay, Iechyd da -RayO, aka Opa!

This message sent from a Dell work station in a commodious Hosptal room I'm
visiting
On Thu, Oct 7, 2010 at 6:45 AM, Alchemist John <john at chocolatealchemy.com>wrote:

> I'm with Mike here.  There are just too many other factors that affect the
> delivered water temperature.  If it is configured as most brewers out there,
> it is heating the water to boiling, then 'shooting' it through the cold
> water chamber, cooling it to 195-205.  Overall, I would say it has nothing
> to do with electrical so much as design and thermostat.
>
>
> At 10:59 PM 10/6/2010, you wrote:
>
>> All electrical theory aside, heating the water to a specified temperature
>> is
>> not the same thing as dispensing the same water temperature to the grinds
>> so
>> likely not defective or technically false advertising. For example one
>> might
>> PID a Silvia brew boiler, but an offset must be set to compensate for the
>> lower temperature at the group. The PID then "displays" the brew temp, not
>> the actual higher boiler temp. Same principle for a dripper, there will be
>> heat loss from the maximum heated water temp...
>>
>> Slave to the Bean  miKe mcKoffee
>> www.CompassCoffeeRoasting.com <http://www.compasscoffeeroasting.com/>
>> URL to Rosto mods, FrankenFormer, some recipes etc:
>> http://www.mckoffee.com/
>>
>> Ultimately the quest for Koffee Nirvana is a solitary path. To know I must
>> first not know. And in knowing know I know not. Each Personal
>> enlightenment
>> found exploring the many divergent foot steps of Those who have gone
>> before.
>>
>> Sweet Maria's List - Searchable Archives
>> http://themeyers.org/HomeRoast/
>>
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: homeroast-bounces at lists.sweetmariascoffee.com
>> > [mailto:homeroast-bounces at lists.sweetmariascoffee.com] On
>> > Behalf Of Dennis Guyer
>> > Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 11:18 AM
>> > To: SweetMarias
>> > Subject: [Homeroast] Electrical question on coffee brewers
>> >
>> > I hope I can explain my situation properly.  I have a drip
>> > coffee brewer that is advertised and being able to heat the
>> > water to 195° - 205°.  It is also listed as using 1400 watts.
>> >  Using my Kill a Watt meter, it reads somewhere between 1200
>> > and 1250 watts draw.  My line voltage is usually 118v to 120v
>> > dropping it around 116v during the brewing process.  The
>> > water using a K-Probe is reading 185° for most of the cycle
>> > ending at a high of 193°.  My question is - is the brewer
>> > defective?  Is the line voltage determining the low readings?
>> >  Do I take the brewer back and demand my money back or is
>> > this to be expected?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Dennis
>>
>>
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>
>
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