[Homeroast] Trouble roasting today...

Rich rich-mail at octoxol.com
Sat Jun 12 11:25:18 CDT 2010


There are several lubricants that would work but they basically have to 
be a thickened oil and not a conventional soap based grease.  That 
little gearbox gets right hot as the drive shaft transfers the heat 
right back inside of the gearbox and just slowly vaporizes the grease. 
This tends to ague against a silicone based grease as it will vaporize. 
  To get the original out and back in you have to capture the 2 nuts and 
that is a trick.

I have no idea how much of an issue it actually is but the one I have 
here failed from lack of adequate grease.  It would still run until it 
got hot and then it quit.  The replacement also has a bit of free motion 
between the gearbox output shaft and the drum drive coupling while the 
original is tightly pinned with a roll pin.  Keep in mid that the 
roaster i have came over in the first batch.  I suspect that things have 
been updated a bit in the intervening time.

Tom & Maria - Sweet Maria's Coffee wrote:
>> Removal and replacement is a real job with the early ones.  You have 
>> to use a 500F or above drop point synthetic grease.  Something from 
>> Nye Lubricants works well.  Figure it will be close to 100.00 for the 
>> grease though.
>>
> 
> !!!  I have a few different lubricants I use on roasters that can handle 
> high temps and don't cost that - I am sure that is amazing grease, but 
> since it is not a food contact point it seems there might be other 
> options. Glad to see this topic come up though, I didn't realize that 
> there was an issue with lubrication, esp on early models.



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