[Homeroast] espresso roast profiles

michael brown disracer at msn.com
Fri Jan 1 20:31:07 CST 2010


I've been going back and forth between P1A and P3C.  With P1A it seems, no matter what the bean, i get 3min between 1st and 2nd and can get to 1C in about 12-13min with about 12-14oz.  P3C seems to be more sensitive to bean differences both with time to 1C and time between 1C and 2C.  

I've been playing with P2B in a way very different from what others have suggested (others like to use it to drop the temp between 1C and 2C).  With P2B i like to bring the time down to 2min before starting, like i do with most the other profiles, then max it out after starting.  This has given me a LONG LONG time between 1C and 2C.  I do this when i want something around City to City+.  It's sometimes taken up to 5-6min to get to 2C so i don't use that if i want to get to 2C.  It seems after that much time it looses that sweet spot you get when to get to 2C faster.  But i like to use that P2B as i described earlier for Ethiopians and Guatemalans that i don't want too dark.

Oh, something i posted last week sometime (whatever day's cup) really amazed me as an espresso blend.  It was a Columbian roasted probably 10sec into 2C, and an Ethiopian that never got close to 2C.  I haphazardly blended a handful of each into the hopper and was blown away.  I need to write that down before i forget it!

But i mostly stick with P1 and P3 when roasting for espresso.  I've also ordered more Grindz and a replacement burr for my Virtuoso and some descaling solution for the espresso machine just to cover all angles.

Michael B
 

> Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 16:14:48 -0800
> From: ghollrigel at gmail.com
> To: homeroast at lists.sweetmariascoffee.com
> Subject: Re: [Homeroast] espresso roast profiles
> 
> I've been playing mostly around FC/FC+ (just at the very beginning of 2nd
> crack).  This has worked well for many beans in the past.  However, with
> Treble Response and Waw Bukan Main, I have not had good results, even in
> view of Tom's recommendations.  Basically, the crema is very thin and
> dissipates fast, even when I get nice tiger striping.  After reading some
> comments on Behmor roasting for the Workshop blends, I decided to roast a
> bit longer into 2nd crack (about 10-20 seconds).  I have a batch of Workshop
> #7 and SO Sumatra that I roasted like that ready to pull for shots
> tomorrow.  So I've got my fingers crossed.
> 
> I've also played around with P2, P3, and P4 quite a bit.  With P2, I get
> more divots.  I've been very happy with P3 and P4, eventhough the time to
> 1st crack is quite a bit longer (around 13 minutes).
> 
> But, I think FC should work for most - maybe work on extending the time
> between 1st and 2nd, and aim to end, just before 2nd crack starts.
> 
> These are just my personal thoughts/preferences.
> 
> Greg
> 
> On Fri, Jan 1, 2010 at 2:54 PM, Yakster <yakster at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> > I've been playing with City+ to Full City, but I use a slower profile like
> > P3 on a Behmor for espresso.
> >
> > I'm just starting espresso roasts, though, so I'm no expert.
> >
> > -Chris
> >
> > On Fri, Jan 1, 2010 at 2:51 PM, michael brown <disracer at msn.com> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Okay, so i know that espresso is a beverage and not a coffee or color.
> > >  I've had some great S.O. espressos around City+.  Looking at Tom's
> > Espresso
> > > Tip's pages i see that too light of a roast can produce a pale crema
> > which i
> > > sometimes also get.  So my question for discussion is, to what degree of
> > > roast do you take your for-espresso beans?  I refuse to burn my beans and
> > > take them into the black, oily region.  Tried that, not doing it again.
> >  As
> > > i said, i've had some decent SO's from City+ all the way to the first
> > couple
> > > of pops of the 2nd crack.  But a lot of my espressos DO end up with a
> > pale
> > > crema and not that dark brown/amber color i'm seeking.  Thanks!
> > >
> > > Michael B
> > > b'ham, AL
> > >
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