[Homeroast] Roaster woes...
coffee at starf.org
Wed Feb 3 13:34:38 CST 2010
How do I get it? I was momentarily tempted to install the 222C fuse, or
even better to just jump the fuse and be done with it, but I thought
that imprudent. I'm sure that the RS fuse will croak quickly
---actually figured I'd get the chance to replace the 4 errant screws when I
have to disassemble it to re-replace the fuse. I also thought briefly about
simply cutting a bunch of ventilation holes into that area of the chassis,
since it undoubtedly heats up a lot in the unventilated enclosure! Anybody
out there tried that?
On Wed, Feb 3, 2010 at 11:26 AM, <raymanowen at gmail.com> wrote:
> I have the replacement for your blown Fth, eschew RS. Rated at 800° and 13
> Amperes, this really is a thermal fuse- just recalibrated a few degrees and
> a few amps from the one that blew. Right, the RS replacement will blow
> unless you quit using it.
> Normal fuses run at over half their full rated load current in a
> non ventilated enclosure will get hot and melt open. You really shouldn't
> operate high temperature or high power devices unless you can devote 100%
> Operate a thermal fuse near its full rated load inside a hot roaster, and
> you will expose yourself to some Neanderthal design that imposes an
> arbitrary limit on your roasting enjoyment. I think "Home roasting" means
> Don't Run It More Than 5% of the time with a full bean load.
> Just on general principles, the thermal fuse should be the first thing you
> recalibrate before you start using a new piece of equipment. Heat guns are
> supposed to get hot, but Master is the only one I've seen that doesn't have
> an Fth.
> Cheers, Mabuhay, Iechyd -RayO, aka Opa!
> Remember the 100% attention duty cycle.
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